Alrighty then - out of the jungle and into the desert. Somewhere along the line as I leave Queensland and enter the Northern Territory, things will go from hot and wet to hot and dry. The Northern Territory is twice the size of California and packed with no less than 200,000 people. No, I am not missing any zeroes. One fifth of a million people sounds better. Either way, traffic won't resemble California (outside the Mojave Desert). That scale is important, because you may wonder how I could spend two months in Australia and never get to Ayers Rock/ Uluru. When I drive into the Northern Territory, I'll go due West until I get to Tennant Creek before going North.
From Tennant Creek, it would take no less than three days to drive via Alice Springs to Ayers Rock and back. Living in North America that seems close (after all, I'll be in the same state!), but nobody in San Francisco thinks they are similarly close to the Bonneville Salt Flats (or that it is worth a drive to Utah & back just to go see the Salt Flats). Thus, while I have no doubt that I "should" see Ayers Rock, Alex and I have elected that the extra three days of desert are not on the agenda for this trip. Starting in Tennant Creek, Alex & I may actually drive about an hour south to a place called the Devil's Marbles. This is one of those odd places in the desert where rocks form strange shapes, big rocks sit on small rocks in a way that resembles old Road Runner cartoons. From what I can tell, it is an interesting place for one person to pose next to a big rock and an another takes the picture. I am not sure Alex will play along, but we'll see. I caution that we "may" drive it, because after a few longish days on the road or with bad weather, we may not feel like the 2 hour detour.
From there, we'll drive another day and a half North to Darwin. Most of the way, we'll be rolling through a scrubby red desert. Then it will turn into lush jungle. Arguably one of the most impressive National Parks on earth will show up to my East as I approach Darwin. It is called Kakadu National Park - a picturesque landscape and idyllic setting to watch birds or see crocodiles. We may go there on a day trip from Darwin - if the tour is soft and kid friendly enough. Despite my frequent references to the lethal animals, seeing them close up in the wild while managing an inquisitive (or oblivious) toddler presents challenges that may take away from the fun in seeing such animals. As an aside, it is still the Wet season and we are traveling where it gets wet. If it is really wet, we will call an audible and skip Darwin altogether. I have no desire to start any of my entries with "I knew that I should probably not do it, but I kept driving into the the swamp during this tropical storm..."
If all goes to plan, we will take a day or two in Darwin. First off, I will just want to find an espresso drink or have a choice of restaurants. I'll also want to load up on supplies that I could not find in Cairns or along the way. Also, after traveling several days on end, Alex and I will want a day or two not in the car. And there might be some good TV.
Super Bowl 42 will be on February 3 in the US, so February 4 in Australia. I should be in Darwin on February 4. If the Steelers are playing, I will find a way to watch it for sure. If they are not, I may choose to watch it regardless. During the NFL season, one of the major networks in Australia typically plays a "game of the week" on Monday morning. Presumably, this is for US expats to TiVo the game while they are at work. Given the regular season scheduling, I think I'll be able to find the Super Bowl. This trip starts after the college football season because 1) College Football is better than Pro Football, and 2) It is nearly impossible to see College Football outside the United States, while Pro Football remains quite accessible. Aneta and I were in Toronto around New Year's once. Lovely country that time of year. We have some good friends up there, but you'll notice that part of the Anglosphere did not lure me back this January. Anyhow, watching the Gator Bowl on New Year's Day involved over an hour of phone calling. That was Toronto - I thought they got Buffalo, New York stations! By leaving Jan 24, I only risk missing Pro games - as opposed to the certainty of missing College games had I left earlier.
Back to Darwin. Unique among Australian cities, I really don't know what to expect here. Darwin is closer to East Timor and Indonesia than to any city in Australia - closer than Alice Springs, let alone Sydney. It will likely be the closest thing to a Southeast Asian city that I'll see: tropical, sweltering, maybe a little seedy. I am just not sure. What little I've heard and read is sketchy, but I simply do not have any measure of confidence in how it all nets out. At the very least, I am certain that I will be able to get online and post here (if I lack access in the days leading up to Darwin) and I will get mobile phone reception.
We'll leave Darwin, go South to Katherine and West to Kununarra and points beyond in Western Australia. On the southern end of Kakadu, Katherine has tremendous natural beauty including the Katherine Gorge. It looks to be mostly jungle from Darwin to the state line. Then things get really empty.
So what in the heck are Alex and I going to do all day? So far we should be making good time, thus spending a lot of that time in the car. My plan is that Alex and I will get up early to eat and play a little before we hit the road. Timing will depend to some degree on sunrise (usually later in summer when you are closer to the equator, earlier as we go South). So let's say sunrise is at 7 and we get up at 6am - we'll play around and then eat until 7-7:30 then hit the road. In the car, we'll have a photo of Aneta (in the passenger seat) and a CD with Mama speaking to Alex. If we have radio reception, that may take precedence, but for much of the drive, we'll just have CDs. Alex will get a heavy dose of Daddy's (mostly 80's) music along with some Bulgarian children's songs. He is an excellent passenger and we will stop on the way to get out of the car, move around a bit. I'll have a big cooler that we'll load up with ice every morning. I still have not decided if I should leave it in the trunk or in front of the passenger seat. Either way we'll have plenty of water, some juice, some single-serving milk containers, and some food that does not melt or spoil when the car gets warm. I'll talk with him and because we will get up early and stay up late, he should nap quite well in the afternoon (say 1-5). We'll eat dinner when we get where we're going and stay up until 9 or maybe 10. His normal schedule goes 7-1, sleep until 4, then go to bed at 8. This will go 6-1, sleep until 5, then go to bed at 9. We'll see. The first half of the trip will involve much road time, but there will be more playing and smelling the roses from Perth onwards.
It was brought to my attention by one of the growing throng of loyal readers that the map only shows big towns, so I should be clearer where I am going when possible. To backtrack, in Queensland, I plan to drive due West from Cairns until I almost hit water (Gulf of Carpentaria) to Normanton, south until I am parallel with Townsville (or the word "Northern" in Northern Territory), and West again into the Northern Territory. Somewhere around the "E" in "Northern" is Tennant Creek, maybe down to the last R in Territory to the Devil's Marbles, then right back up via Tennant Creek and a straight(ish) line to Darwin. Back down via Kununarra and out to Western Australia (overland to Broome, then along the coast all the way to Perth - but I am getting ahead of myself). One other reader commented that these entries are kind of long. Yep. When I'm out there, my daily entries will be far shorter.
Next Entry: Western Australia - nearly half the size of the continental US but with only half a million outside Perth.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Trip Preview - Queensland (Part 1 of 7)
Having worked for America's Premier Sports Annual for a decade, I know the unbridled joy that people get from seeing what is supposed to happen - knowing full well that it won't play out that way. Now any 2 month trip is bound to have a few hiccups, but ya gotta have a plan so you know how far off the mark you are (and so you don't miss your flight home).
Alex has been a good flyer, but anyone who has sat within five rows of a 2-year old on an intercontinental flight knows what that part of my trip looks like. In fact, I would venture a guess that you (dear reader) are probably smiling right now at the knowledge that you will not be anywhere near row 38 on United 863 January 24 or wherever they put me on Qantas 926 (Jan 26). On the marginally interesting side, I will never experience January 25, 2008. I leave on the night of the 24th - it stays dark a while - and the sun rises on January 26. Now, admittedly I will get all 41 hours of March 24, so I can live with that tradeoff. Even United got a little mixed up on the way back: my itinerary actually lists us departing LA for San Francisco at noon then departing Sydney for LA a few hours later at 2:15PM. By the time I get on that second flight, I may be a bit disoriented myself.
Mon, Mar 24, 2008 - Los Angeles, CA (LAX) to San Francisco, CA (SFO)
United 0556
Depart: LAX 12:00 PMArrive: SFO 01:13 PM
Non-stop1h 13m 735 337 miles traveled
Fare basis code:WHXRTBooking class: WEconomy500 Award miles
Mon, Mar 24, 2008 - Sydney, Australia (SYD) to Los Angeles, CA (LAX)
United 0840
Depart: SYD 02:15 PMArrive: LAX 09:46 AM
Non-stop13h 31m 744 7,483 miles traveled
Fare basis code:WHXRTBooking class: WEconomy7,487 Award miles
This seven part series will preview the various legs of the trip by state (or territory): Queensland (Cairns and points West), Northern Territory, Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales (and Australian Capital Territory), and finally Queensland (Brisbane to Cairns).
So, onward! We'll get a midsize car from Hertz - no 4x4, no temptation to cross that slightly swollen creek. Put me in a Camry and I'll know my place vis-a-vis nature. The nice thing is that there is a limit on how much they can charge for a child car seat: 5 days $50, 2 months... $50. Other than that we are not exactly saving money on the rental car. I've driven on the left (intentionally) a few times. The first time, I terrified my passengers in England by leaving a nice margin between myself and the middle of the road but not much between the passenger seat and the parked cars. Oh well, I never hit anything so I will call that a win. Last two times in Australia, it was a breeze once I got out of the parking lot.
We'll land in Cairns in the afternoon on Australia Day. Best I can tell this is something like the 4th of July: festivities, fireworks, and an opportunity to process a few pints (while being sure it is a patriotic domestic brew). Alex and I will - without a doubt - be ready to hit the streets of Cairns and bring our respective A-games. It will be festive and we'll be so happy to be on the ground that we will probably enjoy that afternoon & early evening ...for about 2 hours, when we realize we got no sleep on the flight. To that end, we will stay at the Hilton Cairns for three nights. One, I am Diamond elite with Hilton so they'll give us a good room (hopefully). Two, it was a deal. Three, I'd like a couple good beds to get over jetlag. Four, it is on the beach next to the marina and the lagoon in the center of the cool part of town. Actually, that should be point one. The benefit of the lagoon it is a little body of water that it has no box jellyfish. Despite being on the beach, we will not be touching the salt water in Cairns. At the risk of turning this into the World's Most Dangerous Places blog, allow me to expand on that point: box jellyfish are these tiny jellyfish that are essentially invisible. There are other even smaller ones - their name escapes me at the moment. They are both equally lethal and show up in the summer - as in January (Southern Hemisphere). Oh, and saltwater crocodiles do in fact show up on beaches (typically attacking from the water's edge). Now saltwater crocs probably do not appear on city beaches all that much, but I want to be clear that the water around Cairns does much to keep one on one's toes. We'll get to some beaches... but not here.
Cairns is in the state of Queensland. Queensland is kind of like the Florida of Australia. People from big cities vacation here. Its population is growing as people retire here. It is hot & humid, which I like. Most people know it as the home of the Great Barrier Reef. Unfortunately, while I am certain he could do as well as any toddler, Alex has not yet passed his SCUBA certification and I have not figured out how we could get out to the reef together. For now at least, the Great Barrier Reef is not on the agenda. As for the rest of Queensland, we'll be back to Queensland as we drive back to Cairns and I'll cover the it in more depth then (part 7).
The Risk-Aversion portion of my mind is focused on one thing during this segment: the rain. It will rain a lot in January. One thing that could extend our stay in Cairns would be a typhoon. Ever since I lived in South Carolina, I have loved thunderstorms (at least while I am in a safe, dry place). Something tells me I may get to experience one in Cairns. Because of the rain, our emphasis in Queensland may be outrunning a front and driving out of Queensland. Effectively, there are no people West of Cairns (mountains then jungle). For that matter, it is less than populous until Perth, but that is a few states away. The only segment of the trip that has a decent chance of being affected by weather is this one, so now you know what I am thinking about. There are two roads that can take us out of Cairns to the western edge of Queensland: one goes straight West to Normanton then South to Cloncurry and West to Mt. Isa and Camooweal, the other option is South to Townsville and then West to Cloncurry, etc. Both would be beautiful routes - mountains, jungles, open spaces. Bear with me as I use movie examples to help illustrate the landscape. If you haven't seen Crocodile Dundee or Mad Max lately, no worries. If you recall the Australia parts of Crocodile Dundee movies, that is what this stretch of the drive will look like. Actually, the "Walkabout Creek" pub used in Crocodile Dundee is a little South of Cloncurry in McKinlay. Please don't ask how I know this. Anyhow, it will take about two, maybe two and a half days to get from Cairns to the state line. If the weather is good, it will be an amazing drive and I'll post great pictures. If not, I'll just get on with it and post great pictures from the desert in the Northern Territory.
But first we have to actually visit Cairns. In our three days in the Cairns area, we will take one day to drive up to Port Douglas and maybe on towards Cape Tribulation (absolutely gorgeous jungle next to the mountains, resort town, more beautiful scenery). Aside: Pt Douglas is just north of Palm Cove on the map above - I have no idea why Palm Cove "made the cut" to be on that map. We will also take a train up to Kuranda. The train to Kuranda is supposed to be a great ride and one of many places that Alex should enjoy. Finally, we'll spend a day in Cairns - shopping and just walking around town.
Cairns is a tiny town, but it is the last town (the northeastern-most city) and the only town for a few hundred miles. Think of it as a Key West (the end of the line) or a tropical Bismark, North Dakota (a dot on an empty part of the map). Since it has tourists, Key West might be more appropriate. Many trips to Australia start or finish here (naturally mine does both), so if anything I've read is accurate, I should find a disproportionately high number of big box retail stores here. While in Cairns we'll load up on supplies for our travels (bottled water, food that does well in the heat, an Australian phone, first aid and a roadside repair kit, maybe an Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB), etc). We may be warm, but we'll never go hungry.
Last point: you can follow along with this route on Google Maps or Google Earth. Google Earth shows a few photos here and there of what things look like in various places. The map on the top of this page is good for the big towns, but most of the villages, dorfs, two horse towns, and gas stations that I name will not make the national map. Just about the only reservations (until Part 6) that I have are those first three days in Cairns. The rest will involve playing it by ear, so projected town names are directional guesstimations, not solid targets. The approximate plan: Jan 26-29 in Cairns, drive to Normanton on the 29th, Mt Isa or Camooweal on the 30th.
Part 2: Northern Territory, how I think I'll keep Alex entertained, and where we'll watch the Super Bowl
Alex has been a good flyer, but anyone who has sat within five rows of a 2-year old on an intercontinental flight knows what that part of my trip looks like. In fact, I would venture a guess that you (dear reader) are probably smiling right now at the knowledge that you will not be anywhere near row 38 on United 863 January 24 or wherever they put me on Qantas 926 (Jan 26). On the marginally interesting side, I will never experience January 25, 2008. I leave on the night of the 24th - it stays dark a while - and the sun rises on January 26. Now, admittedly I will get all 41 hours of March 24, so I can live with that tradeoff. Even United got a little mixed up on the way back: my itinerary actually lists us departing LA for San Francisco at noon then departing Sydney for LA a few hours later at 2:15PM. By the time I get on that second flight, I may be a bit disoriented myself.
Mon, Mar 24, 2008 - Los Angeles, CA (LAX) to San Francisco, CA (SFO)
United 0556
Depart: LAX 12:00 PMArrive: SFO 01:13 PM
Non-stop1h 13m 735 337 miles traveled
Fare basis code:WHXRTBooking class: WEconomy500 Award miles
Mon, Mar 24, 2008 - Sydney, Australia (SYD) to Los Angeles, CA (LAX)
United 0840
Depart: SYD 02:15 PMArrive: LAX 09:46 AM
Non-stop13h 31m 744 7,483 miles traveled
Fare basis code:WHXRTBooking class: WEconomy7,487 Award miles
This seven part series will preview the various legs of the trip by state (or territory): Queensland (Cairns and points West), Northern Territory, Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales (and Australian Capital Territory), and finally Queensland (Brisbane to Cairns).
So, onward! We'll get a midsize car from Hertz - no 4x4, no temptation to cross that slightly swollen creek. Put me in a Camry and I'll know my place vis-a-vis nature. The nice thing is that there is a limit on how much they can charge for a child car seat: 5 days $50, 2 months... $50. Other than that we are not exactly saving money on the rental car. I've driven on the left (intentionally) a few times. The first time, I terrified my passengers in England by leaving a nice margin between myself and the middle of the road but not much between the passenger seat and the parked cars. Oh well, I never hit anything so I will call that a win. Last two times in Australia, it was a breeze once I got out of the parking lot.
We'll land in Cairns in the afternoon on Australia Day. Best I can tell this is something like the 4th of July: festivities, fireworks, and an opportunity to process a few pints (while being sure it is a patriotic domestic brew). Alex and I will - without a doubt - be ready to hit the streets of Cairns and bring our respective A-games. It will be festive and we'll be so happy to be on the ground that we will probably enjoy that afternoon & early evening ...for about 2 hours, when we realize we got no sleep on the flight. To that end, we will stay at the Hilton Cairns for three nights. One, I am Diamond elite with Hilton so they'll give us a good room (hopefully). Two, it was a deal. Three, I'd like a couple good beds to get over jetlag. Four, it is on the beach next to the marina and the lagoon in the center of the cool part of town. Actually, that should be point one. The benefit of the lagoon it is a little body of water that it has no box jellyfish. Despite being on the beach, we will not be touching the salt water in Cairns. At the risk of turning this into the World's Most Dangerous Places blog, allow me to expand on that point: box jellyfish are these tiny jellyfish that are essentially invisible. There are other even smaller ones - their name escapes me at the moment. They are both equally lethal and show up in the summer - as in January (Southern Hemisphere). Oh, and saltwater crocodiles do in fact show up on beaches (typically attacking from the water's edge). Now saltwater crocs probably do not appear on city beaches all that much, but I want to be clear that the water around Cairns does much to keep one on one's toes. We'll get to some beaches... but not here.
Cairns is in the state of Queensland. Queensland is kind of like the Florida of Australia. People from big cities vacation here. Its population is growing as people retire here. It is hot & humid, which I like. Most people know it as the home of the Great Barrier Reef. Unfortunately, while I am certain he could do as well as any toddler, Alex has not yet passed his SCUBA certification and I have not figured out how we could get out to the reef together. For now at least, the Great Barrier Reef is not on the agenda. As for the rest of Queensland, we'll be back to Queensland as we drive back to Cairns and I'll cover the it in more depth then (part 7).
The Risk-Aversion portion of my mind is focused on one thing during this segment: the rain. It will rain a lot in January. One thing that could extend our stay in Cairns would be a typhoon. Ever since I lived in South Carolina, I have loved thunderstorms (at least while I am in a safe, dry place). Something tells me I may get to experience one in Cairns. Because of the rain, our emphasis in Queensland may be outrunning a front and driving out of Queensland. Effectively, there are no people West of Cairns (mountains then jungle). For that matter, it is less than populous until Perth, but that is a few states away. The only segment of the trip that has a decent chance of being affected by weather is this one, so now you know what I am thinking about. There are two roads that can take us out of Cairns to the western edge of Queensland: one goes straight West to Normanton then South to Cloncurry and West to Mt. Isa and Camooweal, the other option is South to Townsville and then West to Cloncurry, etc. Both would be beautiful routes - mountains, jungles, open spaces. Bear with me as I use movie examples to help illustrate the landscape. If you haven't seen Crocodile Dundee or Mad Max lately, no worries. If you recall the Australia parts of Crocodile Dundee movies, that is what this stretch of the drive will look like. Actually, the "Walkabout Creek" pub used in Crocodile Dundee is a little South of Cloncurry in McKinlay. Please don't ask how I know this. Anyhow, it will take about two, maybe two and a half days to get from Cairns to the state line. If the weather is good, it will be an amazing drive and I'll post great pictures. If not, I'll just get on with it and post great pictures from the desert in the Northern Territory.
But first we have to actually visit Cairns. In our three days in the Cairns area, we will take one day to drive up to Port Douglas and maybe on towards Cape Tribulation (absolutely gorgeous jungle next to the mountains, resort town, more beautiful scenery). Aside: Pt Douglas is just north of Palm Cove on the map above - I have no idea why Palm Cove "made the cut" to be on that map. We will also take a train up to Kuranda. The train to Kuranda is supposed to be a great ride and one of many places that Alex should enjoy. Finally, we'll spend a day in Cairns - shopping and just walking around town.
Cairns is a tiny town, but it is the last town (the northeastern-most city) and the only town for a few hundred miles. Think of it as a Key West (the end of the line) or a tropical Bismark, North Dakota (a dot on an empty part of the map). Since it has tourists, Key West might be more appropriate. Many trips to Australia start or finish here (naturally mine does both), so if anything I've read is accurate, I should find a disproportionately high number of big box retail stores here. While in Cairns we'll load up on supplies for our travels (bottled water, food that does well in the heat, an Australian phone, first aid and a roadside repair kit, maybe an Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB), etc). We may be warm, but we'll never go hungry.
Last point: you can follow along with this route on Google Maps or Google Earth. Google Earth shows a few photos here and there of what things look like in various places. The map on the top of this page is good for the big towns, but most of the villages, dorfs, two horse towns, and gas stations that I name will not make the national map. Just about the only reservations (until Part 6) that I have are those first three days in Cairns. The rest will involve playing it by ear, so projected town names are directional guesstimations, not solid targets. The approximate plan: Jan 26-29 in Cairns, drive to Normanton on the 29th, Mt Isa or Camooweal on the 30th.
Part 2: Northern Territory, how I think I'll keep Alex entertained, and where we'll watch the Super Bowl
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